IR REMOTE RECEIVER
PREFACE
This infrared remote receiver circuit base on the design of DIY kit. I built this circuit but I didn't buy from them. It is a useful circuit anyway. I used it for switching my lighting room. Usually before go to sleep, I prefer reading while laying on the bed, and then after a few moment then I fell to sleep, or even not while still sleepy it is very hard to walk to the switch on the wall, to turn off the lamp. It is very often like that. So I made this circuit work for it, while I can switch the lamp without standing from the bed. Just use a remote control. The circuit response to any of remote control unit, like a TV remote, VCR remote, VCD remote, Compo remote, etc... etc..., but it's only response to a few buttons. It doesn't matter anyway, because we only use a single channel (our purpose is only to toggle state). I used a general remote control unit. This unit can be programmed to many electronic equipment products from many maker. But it is ok for any remote that can be found on your house. It is all work fine, I have already tested it !
SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM
The circuit (33.150 Bytes) already changed a little from the original design to make it a stand alone unit. The works is still the same with the original design. I search for the IR detector module (the most difficult component to find) from the local market. Then I found 3 types of this with different package (9.667 Bytes). I used the second ones. It doesn't matter for the code because some IR detector works at 36 kHz while the other works for 37.9 kHz. I also not quiet understand about it anyway. For this circuit, the code not necessary at all, because we only want a pulse to toggle the flip-flop. So forget about it. Here is the data for TSOP17XX and TSOP18XX. It is ok for what type of you can find, it is work. Before using this type, I try to made it from a discrete component like photo transistor or photo diode with amplification circuit. But the response not very good. Its only react about 1.5 meters, and the beam must directly straight forward. So forget about it. If you can't find the IR-module, don't build this circuit. IR-module much more sensitive than that, it can still response about 10 meters and the beam not necessary directly straight forward. It also can receive bounce off signal.
The response pulse is about the same as the charge time (R4xC2) = 12 msec. While the discharging time (R5xC2) = 0.5 sec. The charging cycle of the capacitor C2 provides the rising edge needed to clock the flip-flop. The discharging time of the capacitor C2 is much slower then the frequency of the received pulses. But on my prototype it is often the flip-flop react 2 times, on then off again, for some of remote control buttons. So it is better to bigger this discharging time to prevent that matter. Note that you can also add the count for the flip-flop input charging/discharging time (R6xC3) = 1.2 sec. to prevent that matter.
One of the advantage of this circuit compare to the commercial one is a used for a relay. A commercial product usually used a triac for the output drive. So it is not possible to drive the neon lamp (TL) like philips SL or some kind of it. Because it will produce a flicker. But by using a relay for the output drive, we can put this type of lamp to work. Use a power relay type for safety reason.
I change the power supply circuit using the common voltage regulator IC, because the original circuit not produce the stable voltage. Original circuit wired to become active low. The output IC1 pin 12 (-Q flip-flop) used to drive the transistor Q2. I change it to become active high, so every time the switch on, the relay also on too. You can choose it as you want.
PCB LAYOUT
I already designed the layout (10.164 Bytes) to be used for a stand alone unit. The design not very small, but already tested and it works. I used a small transformer that I could find on the market. The circuit not drawn so much power, it is about less than 100mA for my prototype, depends on the relay type. Note that, because we want to use it for hi-power (220V-AC) use a good power relay. Also if the relay use a different voltage to drive it, you can reduce the transformer output voltage. Here for example I use a 220V-AC/5A output rating with coil voltage about 24V.
PARTS LISTS
Component parts lists to build the complete set are :1. Resistors :
R1, R2, R4, R6 = 27k ......................4 pcs R3 = 100k ................................. 1 pcs R5 = 1M ................................... 1 pcs R7 = 4k7 ...................................1 pcs R8 = 6k8 ...................................1 pcs R9 = 470 Ohm/2W ............................ 1 pcs
2. Capacitors :
C1, C3 = 47 uF/10V (elco) ................. 2 pcs C2 = 0.47 uF ...............................1 pcs C4 = 47 uF/25V (elco) ......................1 pcs C5 = 100 uF/35V (elco) .....................1 pcs C6 = 100 nF .............................. 1 pcs
3. Semiconductors :
D1 = 1N4148 (Silicon diode) ...................1 pcs D2 = 1N4007 (Silicon diode) ................... 1 pcs Led1 = Red Led (3 mm) .........................1 pcs BD1 = BY127 (Bridge diode) .....................1 pcs IR1 = TK-19 TSOP 1738 (Infra red module) ....... 1 pcs IC1 = 4013 (CMOS IC) ............................1 pcs IC2 = 78L05 or 7805 (voltage regulator) ...........1 pcs Q1 = BC558 (PNP transistor) ...................... 1 pcs Q2 = C1061 (NPN transistor) .......................1 pcs
4. Others :
RL1 = 24V relay PCB type (hi-power output, 5A/220V-AC) ............ 1 pcs CON1 = 4 pin screw terminals PCB type ............................. 1 pcs T1 = 220V to 24V, sec. 150mA/3W (Transformer) ..................... 1 pcs Optional push on switch for toggle operation ...................... 1 pcs
PROTOTYPE
After everything has been tested, then it is the time to put it all to the right box. I used a self made acrylic box (13.986 Bytes). The dimension about 150mm(L) X 60mm(W) X 60 mm(T). So it is safety enough from a short circuited. To make the circulation inside, drilled the both side with 6mm holes formed a row-column. Note that I put the IR-Module outside the box, to make a good response, just glue it because the body also made from a kind of plastic. You can also see a small push on switch at the top of box. I added this part later because, sometimes the response was bouncing when the main switch was on, and to prevent when somethimes I lost my remote, or to fast moving when I wanted to switch it off. For the remote control I use a universal type (36.753 Bytes) like this.
Here is the circuit diagram of application this ir remote receiver to activated lamp (5.467 Bytes) at my room. The original wiring changed as necessary. You can also put the unit close to the lamp and take a new wire from the lamp to the output of the relay. It is all your choice. I prefer like this so I only wired 1 piece of cable. Besides that the unit can be reach easy if you put it at the main switch (8.631 Bytes). Now only one point must to remember that, becareful when doing this at home, switch wire contain a hot wire line at one side. Also careful when changing the fuse if it was blown, turn of the switch first for safety reason. Good luck!
WARNING!!! Be careful when you do some repairing or at the assembling. You must turn off the power before doing any change (turn the main breaker off). Otherwise a hazardous voltage will cause you injured. 
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